Modding is not really a good possibility.Cool white emitters (Flood as warm would have been great!).Dual emitters fit their job well (flood is floody, spot it spotty).Remarkably low quiescent current with lithium-ion cell.I compare everything to the 219b BLF-348 because it’s inexpensive and has the best tint! Conclusion What I like The emitters may be the same, but the reflectors are not – one (the spot) has a smooth reflector, and the other (the flood) has a wavy reflector. They’re almost certainly LH351b but are very much “on the cooler side.” These are Samsung emitters, but Nicron doesn’t state which ones specifically. Nicron utilizes two of what I take to be the same emitters in the H15. I’m interested to see if the H15 has this as well (and will know soon enough.) LED and Beam I can’t explain it, and I’m eagerly awaiting Nicron to explain it, too. (The limitation of “Spot” and red (and no Flood) is probably because the flood switch controls red too – can’t control both at once with the same switch.Īside from the bug in my user interface that caused the floodlight to go off on its own after exactly 1 minute (which if written as a feature might not be the worst feature ever!), there was also quite a few instances where clicking (not holding) Switch B didn’t go to red, but to the flood modes. It is possible to have not only both white emitters on at one time but also Spot and Red on at the same time. One blink (of spot emitter): <30% capacity Two blinks (of spot emitter): 30-70% capacity Three blinks (of spot emitter): 70-90% capacity ª Battery indication displays as follows:įour blinks (of spot emitter): >90% capacity This brings up the point that the graphic in the manual isn’t completely clear. ^ Technically the manual graphic indicates “holding both” would go to Turbo (both emitters on highest), but in reality I found it to require separate actions – click one emitter to the highest output, then click the other to the highest output (per the required steps in the table above.) Holding both to get to turbo would be the ideal option, though. Reverse mode order (for both emitters) (light will blink throughout this process. Almost everything that goes for one emitter goes for both (with two exceptions.) Unlike the H25, I don’t believe the mode order can be swapped from HML to LMH (another gripe). Here’s a UI table! Remember that the switches each completely control their respective emitters. They’re big enough to get on easily, but they’re sleek enough that you’re very unlikely to click them accidentally. These are very low action, low profile e-switches. One’s a power switch (and has a power symbol, and Nicron calls this one “Switch A”) and the other one controls the floodlight and is called “Switch B.”) Two switches are used for the operation of the Nicron H15 headlamp. I wrote more about this Ultrafire WF-602C flashlight and explained a little about PWM too. In a display faster than 0.2ms or so, the on/off cycle is more than one screen, so it’d just (very incorrectly) look like a flat line. Unfortunately, the PWM on this light is so bad that it doesn’t even work with my normal scale, with is 50 microseconds (50us). I’m adding multiple timescales, so it’ll be easier to compare to the test light. Also, here’s the light with the worst PWM I could find. Every mode has PWM, and on the lower modes, it is absolutely visible.įor reference, here’s a baseline shot, with all the room lights off and almost nothing hitting the sensor. The default mode order is Highest to lowest, which is how the graphs below are presented. My biggest gripe with the H15 is the PWM. Here’s a charge graph with a couple of tests. When charging is complete, a green emitter turns on. While charging, an emitter on the positive terminal of the cell lights red. I test output and such in PVC tubes!! Please consider claims within 10% of what I measure to be perfectly reasonable (accurate, even). I don’t have $10,000 or even $1,000 worth of testing equipment. ^ Measurement disclaimer: I am an amateur flashlight reviewer. Long Review The Big Table Nicron H15 Headlamp Also, I would prefer high CRI emitters, and not the cool (and very cool) choices seen here. The user interface is good, but I could stand to have an added (lower) mode. The Nicron H15 is a dedicated headlamp (ie not really for “right angle” uses), but the dual emitter setup works well. Probably around $40 (maybe even $30), but again no official listing, so it’s hard to say. A similar but bigger light is the Nicron H25. There is only one version of the Nicron H15 headlamp. Sorry! I can’t find any official pages for this headlamp yet. I reached out to Nicron recently and they sent over a few lights – including this Nicron H15 headlamp! This is a dual emitter headlamp – read on! Tint vs BLF-348 ( 219b version) (affiliate link).
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |